The Pullman Pan

And the History Its Name Links To — Part One

Pain de Mie and the Pullman Loaf Pan it was baked in. Photo: Jolene

One of the things I love about writing this newsletter is that I can pull on a thread of something that interests me and get all tangled up in it — in the best possible way — as it unspools.

I don’t make bread often, but I wanted to bake a loaf of the French sandwich bread pain de mie (“bread of crumb”) that is tender, a lovely color and slightly sweet. It makes the best toast, is terrific for sandwiches and French toast, bread pudding, croutons and more.

The pan for the pain is a rectangular, lidded affair — the Pullman loaf pan — and it gives the bread those perfect, neat corners.

And the name?

19th Century Engraving of a Pullman Sleeping Car. Getty Images

Pullman loaf pans were used by European bakers as far back as the 18th Century, but acquired their name later thanks to the ubiquity on the Pullman railway system. The loaves of bread baked in these pans were prized in railway dining cars for space efficiency because they stacked well and filled more space than round loaves.

—Laurie Ellen Pellicano, Epicurious, 2022

Pullman Restaurant Car Kitchen, 1932. Photo: Pullman Museum

The Pullman Palace Car Company

The company name synonymous with rail travel, sleeping cars and dining cars started on the South Side of Chicago.

In 1864, the powerful industrialist and engineer George Pullman brought luxury to overnight train travel with his revolutionary sleeping cars, where passengers were served by an army of former slaves who became known as Pullman Porters and Maids.

— WTTW, Chicago Stories: Pullman and the Railroad Rebellion

Pullman Dining Car. Pullman Museum

There is so much significant American history surrounding Pullman that I’ll be doing a part two of this post in May.

I’ve linked to the excellent WTTW series here: Pullman. Topics include the history of the Pullman Porters and Maids, the labor uprising, and the seeds of the Civil Rights Movement that were planted at the time.

Uniform Cap of Pullman Porter Robert Jackson Thomas, 1900. Getty Images

There’s also a video tour of one of the remaining private Pullman Rail Sleeping and Dining Cars from 1889.

1900 Pullman Menu. From Menu Design in America by TASCHEN.

On the menu, “Bread and Butter” cost ten cents.

Pain de Mie

Photo: Jolene

I really enjoyed making this bread and the result was delicious — plus, I just love the look of it. I used a 9”x 4” x 4” Pullman pan, and the recipe below also has measures for various size pans.

*IT’S VERY IMPORTANT TO LET THE DOUGH RISE (2nd Rise) TO ALMOST THE TOP OF THE PAN BEFORE SLIDING ON THE LID.

Pan de Mie RECIPE: HERE

I made French Toast with Maple Syrup and Blueberries for a “Cutting Board Brunch” and some Toast Soldiers and an egg to dip them in for breakfast the next day.

Photo: Jolene

French Toast Recipe: HERE

Toast Soldiers. Photo: Jolene

BREAD BAKING

If you are interested in learning everything about bread baking from an absolute expert, then you’ll want to subscribe to

Andrew Janjigian

of

Wordloaf

. Here is his recipe for Shokupan, or as Andrew cleverly calls it, “Shokupain de Mie”.

Both Pain de Mie and Shokupan are adaptations of English milk bread; Shokupan was supposedly introduced to Japan by an English baker in 1865, and it likely came to France around the same time.

Recipe: Shokupain de Mie

Have a good weekend, everyone, and thank you, Andrew!

Jolene

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