Beautiful Bread

On the 12th Day of Advent

Child with panettone. Milan, Italy, 1958. Getty Images

At Christmastime, I love panettone. This yeast dough baked with sultana raisins and candied fruit that originated in Milan is a bread that tastes like cake. I look forward to it every year.

Vintage ad, Bettini, 1951

A few years ago,

Anna Muckerman

who writes the terrific

Hungry with Ideas

, met with pastry chef Vincenzo Santoro.

Today, Anna posted a very beautiful tribute to the chef, who passed away recently. The piece focuses on the day she spent with him, filming a video for Eater (included in the piece) on the making of the holiday panettone.

“So long as I feel alive, I will never stop doing this…it is a magic that comes from passion.”

— Chef Vincenzo Santoro, 2021

Here is Anna’s lovely piece. ✨

In pursuit of the perfect panettone 🎄🍞

Panettone is something I’ve never made, and likely won’t — they are crafted so expertly and deliciously by others. So I’ve attached this link from last month about “The Best Panettone” by Michael Sullivan for NYT Wirecutter if you’re looking to purchase one — like I am! Link:Wirecutter

One bread I did make this year was a Pan de Mie/Pullman Loaf, and the credit for it coming out so well has a lot to do with

Andrew Janjigian

, who kindly and patiently went back and forth on email with me till I got the result I wanted.

My Pullman Loaf/Pan de Mie. Photo: Jolene

If you are interested in learning everything about bread baking from an expert, then you’ll want to subscribe to Andrew’s always informative and entertaining newsletter,

Wordloaf

.

A few weeks ago, I asked Andrew about a good bread choice for the holidays, and he suggested his Parker House Swolls — the classic roll in a spiral shape. The link is below this gorgeous photo.

Photo: ©️ Andrew Janjigian, Wordloaf, 2022

Recipe: Parker House Swolls

Andrew put out “The Bread Baker’s Pocket Companion” a few years ago, (which I have and love) and is currently working on a comprehensive new book titled Breaducation, set for release Spring, 2026. 🍞 ✨

DEAR BREAD

Before we go,

Amy Halloran

writes a really engaging newsletter which is a project that grew out of her book, The New Bread Basket, about growers and grains — and, as the book cover says, “Redefining Our Daily Loaf.” You can find Amy at

Dear Bread

here on Substack.

Thank you, Anna, Andrew and Amy! 🍞

Day 12 of “The Little Town” Advent Calendar

Feeding birds on the windowsill.

See you tomorrow! We are now halfway through Advent. 🕯️

Jolene