I clearly have not studied my classic cocktails enough or do not have the right ones ! It looks lovely. I do an ode to egg white foam these days with aquafaba, but it's not the same...although it is fun.
Fascinating post, Jolene! What fun you’re having in your research! Never would have thought of putting meringue in a drink, but it looks delicious, and the history is a total kick. I guess I’ll have to look up the definition of a gilI—I imagine it’s a lot of booze!🤣
I’ve been listening to a long but delightful reading of David Copperfield. Punch is mentioned, consumed and discussed frequently. I imagine the recipe might have been quite close to yours, though maybe without meringue. Here’s a short passage about the delight making punch brings to a man facing financial ruin:
“I never saw a man so thoroughly enjoy himself amid the fragrance of lemon, peel and sugar, the odor of burning rum and the steam of boiling water as Mr. Micawber did that afternoon. It was wonderful to see his face shining at us out of a thin cloud of these delicate fumes, as he stirred, and mixed, and tasted, and looked as if he were making, instead of punch, a fortune for his family down to the latest posterity.”
This was fascinating, Jolene! I love how you always uncover serious history through food...it’s wild to think about Titanic passengers having punch romaine as one of their last drinks.
Also, this is random, but--have you ever read Joan Didion’s essay “In Sable and Dark Glasses”? In it, she talks about making “lettuce cocktails” as a child (a leaf of lettuce with crushed ice in a stemmed glass 😂) which is what I immediately pictured when I read the title “Punch Romaine,” ha! https://www.vogue.com/article/in-sable-and-dark-glasses-joan-didion
Thank you, Sam! I just read the Didion piece, thank you, “ Lettuce Cocktail” 😂 Loved it! her fantasy of sunglasses and sable in Buenos Aires for the divorce was priceless. Oh, Joan! ❤️
A lovely, informative read...as always, Jolene. I so love the title of Wondrich's book! And I agree with Amie in thanking you for taking us along on your research!
I’ll have to try this, even though I’ve been struggling with meringues lately. The last one I made just didn’t have the right height. It’s especially frustrating as I’ve successfully made them before. I have meringue yips.
This meringue recipe is foolproof and make the full four egg white version (easier to get the whip going if you have big stand mixer with more eggs) you will prevail! Let me know how it goes 😊
I came to this essay via Emily Nunn’s thread on the new non-Twitter “Substack Notes”-- and I’m very happy to get a look at what you’re up to, Jolene! It feels especially Kismet-ish as I just read Edith Wharton’s THE AGE OF INNOCENCE, in which Roman Punch figures: “But a big dinner, with a hired chef and two borrowed footmen, with Roman punch, roses from Henderson's, and menus on gilt-edged cards, was a different affair, and not to be lightly undertaken. As Mrs. Archer remarked, the Roman punch made all the difference; not in itself but by its manifold implications--since it signified either canvas-backs or terrapin, two soups, a hot and a cold sweet, full decolletage with short sleeves, and guests of a proportionate importance.”
Roman Punch on the menu means you’re getting the whole shebang!
The whole punch topic is fascinating, and your look at the Roman/Romaine angle is really interesting and FUN.
I love this, Maria! Thanks a million for sending the passage, you’re so right about the Punch Romaine sending the message that this is a ‘whole shebang!’ So interesting, I’m finding out a lot about Gilded Age New York vs Gilded Age Chicago and all the competition. Glad you found me via Emily, she’s so lovely, talented AND hilarious. Have a great weekend (I’m going to watch the movie version of The Age of Innocence and see if I spot any punch bowls! :)
I agree! It’s more cocktail when it’s got the meringue whipped into the ice, but the other would be a great dessert, Heather, with our without the rum!
Makes me keen to get out my punch bowl... How fabulous that you have this recipe from the subject of your book so you can FUEL the writing with endless glasses of this. Sounds (and looks) utterly delicious!
Thank you, Jillian! I love finding these surprises 🍸 along the way! I thought of you the other day, I’ve got three notebooks going so far for the research and one if strictly devoted to culinary finds!
I thought of you when I read about this, Domenica! When I first read Bertha’s recipe I said ‘oh, granita’ and then when I read about the ‘limonadiers’ it all made sense!
That cocktail is 🤯
I clearly have not studied my classic cocktails enough or do not have the right ones ! It looks lovely. I do an ode to egg white foam these days with aquafaba, but it's not the same...although it is fun.
Googling aquafaba, Jess! 😂
Fascinating post, Jolene! What fun you’re having in your research! Never would have thought of putting meringue in a drink, but it looks delicious, and the history is a total kick. I guess I’ll have to look up the definition of a gilI—I imagine it’s a lot of booze!🤣
4 ounces worth! 🤣 (a gill)
I was skeptical about the meringue bit too, Ruth. And then loved it and promptly drank it 🍸 while writing this post! 😂
I’ve been listening to a long but delightful reading of David Copperfield. Punch is mentioned, consumed and discussed frequently. I imagine the recipe might have been quite close to yours, though maybe without meringue. Here’s a short passage about the delight making punch brings to a man facing financial ruin:
“I never saw a man so thoroughly enjoy himself amid the fragrance of lemon, peel and sugar, the odor of burning rum and the steam of boiling water as Mr. Micawber did that afternoon. It was wonderful to see his face shining at us out of a thin cloud of these delicate fumes, as he stirred, and mixed, and tasted, and looked as if he were making, instead of punch, a fortune for his family down to the latest posterity.”
Love it, thank you, Ruth! ❤️
Fascinating, Jolene!
Thanks, Anne!
I love everything about this.
Thank you so much, Lisa! 😊
So love reading your newsletters, Jolene -- the historical details!
Thank you, Kay, Miss You! Hope you and Phil visit again soon! ❤️
This was fascinating, Jolene! I love how you always uncover serious history through food...it’s wild to think about Titanic passengers having punch romaine as one of their last drinks.
Also, this is random, but--have you ever read Joan Didion’s essay “In Sable and Dark Glasses”? In it, she talks about making “lettuce cocktails” as a child (a leaf of lettuce with crushed ice in a stemmed glass 😂) which is what I immediately pictured when I read the title “Punch Romaine,” ha! https://www.vogue.com/article/in-sable-and-dark-glasses-joan-didion
Thank you, Sam! I just read the Didion piece, thank you, “ Lettuce Cocktail” 😂 Loved it! her fantasy of sunglasses and sable in Buenos Aires for the divorce was priceless. Oh, Joan! ❤️
A lovely, informative read...as always, Jolene. I so love the title of Wondrich's book! And I agree with Amie in thanking you for taking us along on your research!
Thank you so much, Joan, I love ‘the flowing bowl’ description, too!
So glad you’re enjoying the research, and traveling along with me!
Bertha, a “whirlwind of contradictions.” I can totally relate!
Reading about your research for your book is so enjoyable. Thanks for bringing us along.
Me too, Amie! 😂 Thank you so much!
Fantastic, Jolene! I love how the ephemera and recipes of the time can be a window into history like this.
Thank you so much, Megan! So true what you say about something small like a cocktail opening up a whole new window of history!
I’ll have to try this, even though I’ve been struggling with meringues lately. The last one I made just didn’t have the right height. It’s especially frustrating as I’ve successfully made them before. I have meringue yips.
“Meringue yips” omg 🤣
Get back in the game asap, Elizabeth.
This meringue recipe is foolproof and make the full four egg white version (easier to get the whip going if you have big stand mixer with more eggs) you will prevail! Let me know how it goes 😊
I will!
Onward! 🥚 🥚 🥚 🥚 😉
Delightful. The meringue is so unexpected. I had to look up "gill" as a unit of measurement in Bertha's recipe.
Thank you, Vicki! I meant to add a line about a ‘gill’ it’s four ounces or quarter pint.
I came to this essay via Emily Nunn’s thread on the new non-Twitter “Substack Notes”-- and I’m very happy to get a look at what you’re up to, Jolene! It feels especially Kismet-ish as I just read Edith Wharton’s THE AGE OF INNOCENCE, in which Roman Punch figures: “But a big dinner, with a hired chef and two borrowed footmen, with Roman punch, roses from Henderson's, and menus on gilt-edged cards, was a different affair, and not to be lightly undertaken. As Mrs. Archer remarked, the Roman punch made all the difference; not in itself but by its manifold implications--since it signified either canvas-backs or terrapin, two soups, a hot and a cold sweet, full decolletage with short sleeves, and guests of a proportionate importance.”
Roman Punch on the menu means you’re getting the whole shebang!
The whole punch topic is fascinating, and your look at the Roman/Romaine angle is really interesting and FUN.
I love this, Maria! Thanks a million for sending the passage, you’re so right about the Punch Romaine sending the message that this is a ‘whole shebang!’ So interesting, I’m finding out a lot about Gilded Age New York vs Gilded Age Chicago and all the competition. Glad you found me via Emily, she’s so lovely, talented AND hilarious. Have a great weekend (I’m going to watch the movie version of The Age of Innocence and see if I spot any punch bowls! :)
What a yummy sounding concoction! It looks more like dessert than for in between courses.
I agree! It’s more cocktail when it’s got the meringue whipped into the ice, but the other would be a great dessert, Heather, with our without the rum!
Makes me keen to get out my punch bowl... How fabulous that you have this recipe from the subject of your book so you can FUEL the writing with endless glasses of this. Sounds (and looks) utterly delicious!
It was so good, Jenny and after I made it I enjoyed it while writing about it! 🍸😂 I’m wondering what movies have scenes with punch bowls in them? 🤔
That’s the way to do it! I’ll have a ponder about punch bowls in movies, but your post did remind me about the fabulous Madeleine Carroll’s Sauternes Punch - https://www.silverscreensuppers.com/madeleine-carroll/madeleine-carrolls-sauternes-punch - such a “swanky Hollywood ladylike drink” 😂
Love this! Grab the Twiglets!
I so love this post! Especially how your archival work resulted in a gorgeous cocktail!
Thank you, Jillian! I love finding these surprises 🍸 along the way! I thought of you the other day, I’ve got three notebooks going so far for the research and one if strictly devoted to culinary finds!
I so enjoyed learning the history of this drink, Jolene ~ especially the Italian connection 😉 What a fun journey your research is taking you on!
I thought of you when I read about this, Domenica! When I first read Bertha’s recipe I said ‘oh, granita’ and then when I read about the ‘limonadiers’ it all made sense!