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Pride and Defiance in a Bowl of Borsch

Jolene Handy
Feb 26, 2022
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Not long ago, NPR reporter Joanna Kakissis interviewed chef Yvhen Klopotenko in his busy Kyiv restaurant to talk about Borsch.

Chef Klopotenko’s Borsch in progress - via Instagram

The radio interview “A Ukrainian chef’s Borsch is an act of resistance “ is especially poignant now. The determination is there, the pride, the sense of what could be coming. But all was still calm.

“A chef famous in Ukraine for championing the nation’s cuisine sees his cooking as part of the anti-Russian resistance.” NPR/WBEZ Chicago, February 16, 2022

Chef Klopotenko refers to his devotion to the food heritage of Ukraine as “100 Years Back to the Future.” Ukraine is where Borsch originated and is a powerful tradition and symbol to its people. He is working hard to get UNESCO to recognize Borsch as a Ukrainian cultural heritage: EuroNews UNESCO/Borscht

There are many recipes for Borsch, but if you’d like to try this one from Chef Klopotenko, here is the link:

Lenten Borsch

Illustration: Getty Images/bortonia

Chicago, where I live, has a large Ukrainian population; In fact, one of our neighborhoods is called Ukrainian Village. I plan to go there this weekend with friends and have a bowl of authentic Ukrainian Borsch.

I’ve been checking the Instagram profiles of both Chef Klopotenko and NPR reporter Joanna Kakissis and both have posted in the last day, which I was relieved to see.

In a post on February 16th, Chef Klopotenko said:

“Just appeared at the marathon of unity….My main message: we are already one. And in any uncertain situation, cook and eat Borsch. Because it’s about Ukraine. Was, is and will be.”

Traditional Ukrainian Borsch. Photo via Getty Images. Credit: Tetiana Chuduvska

What I’m reading now and a Thank you

Buona Domenica - Italian Recipes and inspiration delivered to your inbox every Sunday.

Historical Supper Club - Food History and Current Events from Sarah Wassberg Johnson.

Constellations in Her Bones - Poetry by Amy Razeghi.

A big thank you to Ruth Stroud for featuring Time Travel Kitchen in her wonderful newsletter. Click here to read: Ruth Talks Food

Take care, Everyone.

Jolene

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Amanda Rae
Writes The Aspen Scoop
Feb 26, 2022Liked by Jolene Handy

"My main message: we are already one. And in any uncertain situation, cook and eat Borsch. Because it’s about Ukraine. Was, is and will be.” --Love the way you wove all of this research together, and the recipe too! I have chills ❤️‍🩹

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Jennifer Billock
Writes KitchenWitch
Feb 26, 2022Liked by Jolene Handy

I used to live in Ukrainian Village and one of the things I love about the neighborhood is how everyone rallies together when they need it, without question, just immediate support and togetherness. It’s time for us to return the favor.

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